|
|
|||
|
Spin verses Spin Spin verses Fly... Both these presentations will catch fish on a consistent basis...but in the early spring I think the Drift system out performs a Fly pattern. The early spring rains combined with snowmelt, transform Great Lakes tributaries to vehement torrents of chocolate milk. This can make fishing Steelhead difficult at times. We know the fish are there, but finding and hooking is not always an easy proposition. Drift Fishing may be the answer during these high water periods. Later in the year as the water levels begin to stabilize and the river waters clear, a fly presentation is by far the better choice. More With Mark Brown
Before starting to gear up for winter and early
spring steelheading, fishermen should have some understanding of the steelhead's
seasonal movements. The Great lakes region is host to four strain of Steelhead
(Rainbow Trout)… Skamania, Ganaraska, Chambers Creek and Little Manistee. All
four species (or) strains are subject to a primal biological clock. Nature’s
imprint gives them no recourse other than to return to their rivers of origin as
nature dictates. However, not all species of steelhead introduced to the Great
Lakes region return to run the rivers at the same time each year.
{Note:} The following run timing chart
describes a general time frame to work with. I think you’ll find this to be
within +/- three days…
Ganaraska strain, enters the tributaries in
January under the ice, and begins their exodus in mid to late May. This is the
strain of Steelhead most often caught late winter and very early spring.
Skamania, Mid-to-late May this strain of steelhead begin to stack up at the
mouth of their river of origin. These Steelies then begin the spawn run in early
June, and stay in the rivers most of the summer, moving back to the lake towards
the end of September. Chambers Creek strain, move up the tribs
mid-to-late fall and stay well into January of the following year. Chambers
Creek strain account for most of the Steelhead caught during the late fall run.
Little Manistee, are also a late fall spawner, entering the tributaries early to
mid October, and staying well after ice-out the following year... Well as you
can see, Steelhead fishing on our Great Lakes Tributaries is for the most part,
a year around affair. Now lets examine the Gear and a few techniques most
commonly used with Winter Steelhead Drift methods of fishing.
Winter/early
spring fishing requires some special gear; 5mm neoprene waders are a standard,
and at least 3mm neoprene gloves as well. A hooded Gore-tex© coat tucked into
your waders will keep you warm and dry all day, even in the most adverse
weather. Remember, the water temperature is 33 to 40 degrees and the air
temperature may be in the 20-degree range. With this in mind, it’s important
to protect all exposed skin. I don’t recommend wading the rivers at this time
of year if it can be avoided. But, if we must enter the river, the fore
mentioned gear is an absolute must!
Most manufacturers drift rods will work for
the winter steelhead drift fishing system, as long as the rod meets these three
important criteria:
Heavy / Stiff butt section, Sensitive tip
section and at least (9’6") in length or longer.
I
highly recommend a longer rod for this Drift system fishing. I feel a 9 foot up
to 11 foot,
rod is the way to go. These longer rods create a fulcrum which allows the
fisherman much better line control, as well as keeping the slack line off the
water during the drift. If the line is allowed to dip below the surface, the
current will ultimately drag it down, thus spoiling the dead drift we are trying
to maintain. The use of paste floatents is also recommended. I use ©Gink
dry fly dressing, although any dry fly dressing will work. Smear 10-12 ft. of the
line just above the Drift float. This helps to keep the slack line from sinking
below the surface. Remember, a Dead Drift presentation is mandatory for this
fishing system to work properly. It's that one component which makes this Drift
Fishing System so very effective.
A
Spinning Reel is also an important component of the Drift fishing system. Like
the rod, the reel must also meet a few prerequisites: It must hold at least 180
yards of 8- 10# test monofilament line, and have a smooth drag system. I much
prefer a spin cast reel, which has been designed for salt-water use. These reels
offer all metal construction and a very smooth drag. You may find these reels to
be a bit more expensive than their freshwater counterpart, but to this
fisherman, these reels are well worth the money. A good alternative to the
spinning reel is the center-pin reel; this reel (drift method) has gained in
popularity throughout the mid-western Great Lakes tributaries as of late. And
with good reason “it works”!
These Center pin reels have
a smooth action and are a versatile addition to our drift system set-up, yah; I
know it’s not easy for us diehard spinners to make the transition but this
center-pin reel drift system certainly merits a closer look…For some
additional information in regards to Center-pin Reels I recommend the following
sites…
The Drift Rig it self... The simpler we keep these components of the system the better it will work... Ok, moving down the line.
Using the spinning / pin reel spool as a start point, we first come to the Float
stop. I have found tying a piece of rubber band to the line just above the stick
float is not only economical, but will not mar or weaken the monofilament line
in anyway. A rubber band tied with the double overhand knot pulled tightly, will
support a great deal of weight. It can also be adjusted easily to any depth
required. Continuing down the line. Just after the Float stopper, we find of course, the Float. If you have ever shopped for floats then you know just how numerous a selection there is. It would seem everyone has developed a float for every conceivable situation a fisherman could encounter. But for our purposes, the following three styles should cover all our needs.
1.
The Fast water Float is a good choice for drifting the heaviest current through
the gut or main river channel.
2.
The Slow water Float, is a good choice for close to the banks or deep pool
tail-out with a slow to moderate flow.
3.
Moderate to fast water Floats, are a good choice for the long runs just before
gravel bars or river bend pools and eddies. You will notice these stick floats
are designed to slip the line through the body. I use this style for the
simple reason that the line exits the top of the float making it much easier to
keep the line off the water. This type of float also can be cast with the
accuracy of a bullet.
Ok,
still moving down the line. We now come to the meat & potatoes of this
system. The Weight and Rig. As with all drift systems, we will need to apply weight in order to get our presentation down to the fish. The amount of weight required will depend upon depth of water and rate of flow. I start with 1/4 once split shot, then add or subtract weight as needed to keep the fly or rig in the feeding zone. We want to maintain the all-important tic-tic-tic as the bait bounces along the bottom. Watching experienced Drift method fishermen, you will notice they are continually making adjustments to the float and weight to achieve and maintain the tic....... The Drift rigs shown here have proven to be by far the most productive for me on the Great Lakes...
Well,
I'll leave that for you to decide. The next time you're out after Steelhead on
the Tribs or any stretch of water that hold steelhead, give this Drift System a
try. I'm sure you won't be disappointed.
The
writer’s gear of choice:
Tip: XT Green monofilament
line can be rendered virtually invisible sub-surface using this simple method;
Remove the spool from the reel, with a (Black) Permanent Marker, blacken out
three equal segments of the line ensuring the marker color has made good
penetration. I think you’ll be pleased with the results.
|
||
| Copyright © 2009 Midwestflyfish.com -- All Rights Reserved | |||
